Oct 2003 – Jan 2004
It's often a busy time before we go travelling. What to pack, what not to pack, documents and visas, updating email addresses,
check ups with doctors and dentists. Life has been hectic. We have learnt to travel light. My backpack weighs 12 kg and
Shirley's weighs in at an impressive 7 kg. And we always have plenty
Singapore
Flew Singapore Air - they are fabulous.
Our 4 days in Singapore were a perfect introduction to "hot and humid". Did the usual tourist things like visit the zoo and the bird park.
Beautiful places to visit. Really enjoyed the "bird show" and seeing the huge variety of colourful species. Also went to a "new age" healing expo.
Similar to NZ though that's probably because Singapore is a former British colony.
Our hotel was right next door to the residence of former leader Lee Kuan Yu (excuse my spelling). In his park we saw doves, a squirrel and the
24 hour machine gun totting guards.
We stayed at the Lloyd Inn $NZ70 per night for two. Friendly staff, small, quiet, and yet close to Orchard Street and the MRT (fast trains).
And Singapore was ever so sterile - security cameras, posters and adverts encouraging you to think a certain way, 101 ways to be politically
correct.
"Personal freedom and personal thinking is such a small price to pay for safety, security, and the state providing for your every need."
Am I being sarcastic or what!!
TIP - we enjoy backpacking but avoid hostels (cramped, impersonal, and noisy). Most countries have great local guesthouses (pension, losmans) or small hotels.
They charge a lot less than the fancy multinationals, less sterile, and often have a lot more culture (and they barter the price) .
We have developed a basic checklist which is .....
Avoid train tracks and construction next door . Make sure the bedroom has a window. Air Con/Fan Main roads are always busy 24/7
Lots of bush means lots of mossies. Own bathroom and toilet? Do they do breakfast and is it included in the price? Friendly helpful staff?
Always ask to see the room (it's OK to say no) Is the shower/bathroom clean? Is the bed comfortable? n Clean towels and linen?
And remember if a tout takes you to a hotel etc then he/she will be getting a commission. There are often 100s of hotels touting for your business.
It's not worth compromising on a horrid room. If you can't find a decent abode then treat yourself for a night at a more expensive place.
Vietnam
Researched most of our Vietnamese Accommodation on this site http://www.vietnamstay.com/hotel/hostel.htm but tended to book when
we arrived and bartered a better price (sometimes). First visited Vietnam in '96. Wow the change is rapid.
Hanoi - what chaos! Millions of motor bikes going beep, beep, beep. Millions of people, and 10,000 touts trying to sell you a cheap
watch, cyclo ride or loaf of bread. The city is a wonderful vibrant place full of exciting people, places, shops and wow is it polluted.
Every evening the red sun struggles to say goodnight through the dense grey haze. We've spent days walking around watching people in
their daily lives. Space is a vital luxury. Vietnamese often sleep and work in the same 20 ft x 10 ft space. They eat out most nights and it
seems all drive motor cycles. The motor bikes carry everything from 25 ft long steel rods to families of 5. Stayed at ANH DAO HOTEL.
http://www.hotelvietnamonline.com/hanoi/anhdao/index.htm
An average hotel (5 out of 10) but staff were helpful. We grabbed a balcony room on the 3rd floor. Great sunsets through
the smog. They looked after our luggage while we travelled to Halong Bay. Their booking agency was great (recommended - Darling Tours).
Great location handy to eateries and the lake. And thinking of eating we give five stars to the original Little Hanoi. Don't be fooled by imitations.
It's down a small side street and upstairs.
Hanoi is probably the capital city of counterfeit products. When even found a store today that sells made up labels for Gucci, Hugo Boss, etc.
There's copies of CDs, DVDs, watches, clothing, appliances, Lonely Planet books and so on. They even copy their neighbours eg if the shop
next door is successful they will call themselves the same name. Consequently there are about 200 Sinh travel companies.
And really cheap. We've just returned from dinner. One large bottle of beer, one fruit drink, vegetables on rice, and lemon grass/chili chicken. All for $6.40 for 2.
We have just returned from Halong Bay (a world heritage park). It was fabulous (and I, Paul am a bit sunburnt). Halong Bay is up with the other
natural wonders of the world we have visited ... Cappadocia in Turkey, the Southern Alps of NZ, Ngongorogoro National Park in Tanzania.
There are 1960 mountainous rocks poking out of the ocean (actually the Bay of Tonkin). The area is a hive of activity. We reckon many of the
boats are smuggling goods from China and drugs from Laos to Hong Kong.
We have just had 3 days of boating around some of the islands. It was truly magnificent and quite difficult to put into words ... lets try amazing,
fabulous, stunning. Booked through Darling Tours at our Hanoi Hotel. Large boat but only 5 couples. We specifically asked for a small group and
they delivered. TIP - say you are on your honeymoon and the captain/guide will give you the large bedroom on the boat (someone has to have it).
We suggest you don't bother about the canoes (they are pathetic and could be dangerous) and spend 2 nights on the boat - you have an option
to stay one night on land but the boat is better.
There were fish farms, locals throwing out their nets, families living on thatched boats, floating shops, and romantic sunsets.
We ate great food, we trekked through the bush, we relaxed on the deck of the boat, kayaked amongst the huge rocks, slept on the boat, and
swam in 30 degree water. Life is wonderful.
Our group we travelled with was small, 10 people, a mixture of Irish, Aussies, Belgium, French, and 1x American. Great bunch of people.
3 days and 2 nights including all meals, accommodation, and our own personal guide cost $80 each. Great value.
Tonight we catch the train at 10pm for Sapa. Hopefully it will be a comfortable ride. The train takes 8 hours and we arrive at 6am tomorrow
morning. Sapa is a small town close to the Chinese border. It has 6 or so ethnic minority tribes with colourful clothing and cultures.
TIP - On the train try and grab a bottom berth in the aircon compartment because the aircon can freeze you as it jets from the roof.
Sapa, 5600 feet above sea level. Sapa is home to Hmong people an ethnic tribe that dresses in black leggings, colourful tapestries and
carry rucksack type woven baskets. Stayed at the Mountain View Hotel. Very friendly though run down. Make sure you get a room with a view.
Rated a 5/10. Food here is great. And full of interesting travellers.
We travelled by jeep with a driver and guide to one of the isolated villages. It was a huge step back in time. Open fires on the dirt floor, guns,
pigs and buffalo, the cold and the poverty. Our guide, Mar, 15 years old and lives 3 hours hill trekking from her village. She does not go to
school, speaks four languages, and sends her earnings home to her parents. She is also very proud to be a Catholic. She was a joy to
spend the day with.
Unfortunately the thick cloud closed in on the mountains - so thick we could not see two feet in front of us. It made driving quite scary,
especially when our driver tried to overtake trucks on the narrow mountain roads (I think Shirley panicked once or twice).
The markets are great and worth exploring and it's a nice feeling just walking around the town.
Some of the restaurants are overpriced (catering for the busloads). Probably 3/4 days max is enough to chill out.
Travelled on overnight train to Hanoi, then we flew on to Hue where we enjoyed an evening of Vietnamese folksongs on one of the dragon boats. If you
are on a tight schedule I recommend flying between these two cities otherwise you get to experience a 12 hours bus trip and the loss of a day.
We also visited the Forbidden City and travelled by cyclo.
Stayed in the Binh Minh Hotel http://www.hotels-in-vietnam.com/hotels/Hue/binhminhhotel.html - a quiet guest house close to the river, good breakfasts on the balcony. Rated 6/10.
We are in Hoi An - a small town. It is the arts centre of Vietnam a sixteenth century village with a history of Japanese, Portuguese,
Chinese and Vietnamese influences. There are lots of galleries and the inner streets are closed off to cars, giving Hoi An an atmosphere
that is relaxed and enjoyable. We have five days here to explore, bike ride, visit China Beach, and enjoy the fabulous food.
( Fresh fish steamed in a banana leaf $NZ3 ). Hired a pushbike and explored the surroundings. Just lovely. Check out the restaurant on the
river front where the chef chooses your meal for you. One of our more enjoyable meals.
Our accommodation is great. First night we stayed at the Vinh Hung 1 Hotel in the old quarter. Oozes charm but very small room.
Shifted up the road to the Vinh Hung 3. The hotel even has a swimming pool and is an easy walk to the fabulous old quarter. $NZ25 per night.
We heard tell that NZ beat Wales and that it was one of the best games so far. We will try and catch NZ playing South Africa.
Xin Chao from Nga Trang. We caught the train (540miles) last night - 9 hours. We have arrived at the Koh Samui, the Kuta Beach,
the Riviera of Vietnam. We are staying at the Grand Hotel, (sorry can't find a link for readers to view but is mention in LP) a huge beachfront French Villa,
and it is very grand. Very romantic. It has been refurbished and is quite luxurious. You can't book ahead because they keep it available for the military
and visiting dignitaries. $NZ20 per night. No sign at the front but you can't miss the building. Rated 9/10. No meals onsite.
Mama Hahns famous boat trip tomorrow into the South China sea. An all day boat journey, diving, swimming, and food - all for $NZ10.
Dinner tonight on the beach Fresh seafood and Tiger beer.
Today it is hot hot hot. 30 degrees. Lazy and NO we do not want a cyclo, a taxi, motorbike, or a cheap watch. I guess we are starting
to feel relaxed and creative because I’ve penned a poem about the journey.
Ramblings on the train. Danang to Nga Trang November 2003.
Hot, dusty, busy villages. Small houses.
Old ladies, bent backs, conical hats, and sad stories. Theirs is a slow sad shuffle.
Country workers squatting, digging. Farmers and big black buffalos plowing.
Graveyards, haystacks, coconut trees, sugar cane, banana, more graveyards, lots of graveyards.
A lot of parents and children have died here - shame America, shame.
The past isn’t dead - It isn’t even past.
Another bridge, another river, clickety clack.
Canoes for living in, fishing for dinner. Workers work the rice paddies. Not a tractor in sight. Just bent backs - the weight of survival.
Women on bikes, men on bikes, (no buffalo on bikes). School kids on bikes - beautiful Ao Dai - ever so elegant - this country is elegant.
Evening chores - kids herd the buffalo and geese - the workers herd themselves.
Just past six, the day is closing. Peasants head home to soup and rice.
We head south and life goes on.
Dalat
We were disappointed with Dalat. We were expecting a beautiful highland village. Instead we arrived in this busy and large town.
The surrounding area was magic. Fresh fruit, trees, bush, lakes, strawberries. We hired guides on motorbikes and spent the day
exploring the countryside. Dalat had the same temperature as New Zealand. Hired a motorbike guide who took us to
Chicken Village (yawn) and to the waterfalls and lake. Our bus driver had tried to hijack us to his hotel (4kms out of town) but we
stood firm and insisted on going to the Peace Hotel but it was a dump rated 1/10. Ended up by going to a small new, clean and tidy hotel
(name unknown) in Duong Tang Bat $US6 per night rated 5/10. It was close to the square and food shops. We thought Dalat was quite
warm but the locals thought it was cool. We walked then streets in T shirts an the locals wore gloves, scarves, and thick jackets.
Food in Dalat was great. Lots of trendy type cafes and restaurants - average prices. We definitely recommend
V CAFE 1/1 Bui Thi Xuan
Dalat Tel: (84-63) 837 576.
After a few days we missed the warmth of the beach, the sand, and the hot sun. The journey by bus from Dalat to Mui Ne is fabulous.
Scenic country and coastlines.
Sunshine at Mui Ne
What a fabulous place. A short journey from Phan Thiet. Mui Ne is a small community with cafes, great beachfront
accommodation at the Full Moon. Once again the bus driver tried to hi jack us but we had heard good reports of the Full Moon
and wanted accommodation that was central to internet, food, and other human beings. Cost US$25 per night and rated 7/10.
Friendly staff and good food though it is worth exploring the myriad of other food establishments in town.
We were entertained every day by 2 crazy Americans who tried (when they weren’t surfing the net or roller blading).
Every day the two Americans tried in vain to traverse the ocean waves in their kayak. Every day they failed and fell into the water.
Top marks for perseverance. Shirley and I hitched a ride on a motor bike with a café owner to the nearest village.
Wow it was poor. Often when we get caught up in the tourist scene we miss out on exploring the other side of the fence.
Helped the locals pull in their huge fishing net one morning. It was a major community effort. The fish is on sold to the local fish factory.
The locals have these amazing round thatched boats. They made steering them so easy. Enjoyed watching the All Blacks play and win
against France at an Irish pub.
A week at Mui Ne was enough. Enough of the sunshine. Enough of the pineapple shakes,. Enough of the 3 swims a day. We were
yearning for the bright lights, the chaos of big city life. Bring on Saigon.
After some very hot and humid days at Mui Ne Beach, Saigon has been very pleasant.
Saigon is so different from the rest of Vietnam - very Americanised, less touts, English is more widely spoken (in Hanoi French is the second
language). Saigon is fun, relaxed, and enjoyable. To live here for a year in a comfortable air con hotel eating out 3 times a day would cost
one person about $NZ11,000.
We are staying near the Reunification Park (so named after the South was reunified with the North in 1975). It's about 10 minutes walk from the
backpacker area but the hotels are more local and interesting. We opted out of staying in the backpacker area. Instead we are in the local district
enjoying the local hospitality but still very close to the action. It is wonderful. Small hotel (name unknown) but clean and tidy. Rated 6/10.
Very close to Cong Vien Van Hoa Park and opposite the Rang Dong Hotel in Duong Bui Thi Xuan.
Visited the local supermarket and enjoyed seeing the different foods and variety of goods.
This morning at 5.30 whilst Shirley was still asleep I arose to join the thousands of locals who start their day with "exercise in the park".
People were playing badminton, doing aerobics, tai chi, jogging, walking, martial arts, yoga, and some new disciplines I have not seen before.
Lots of age groups but no children - mainly because they were preparing to start school at 6.30 ish.
By 7am a group of about 40 men had gathered in one corner of the park to show off their birds. Yes, in cane thatched cages were an interesting
variety of tweeting, whistling, colourful birds. It's quite a status symbol amongst men to have a strong whistling bird.
Last night we explored restaurants. One place was offering live turtle, wild boar on the spit, cobra, civet cat, and more. We decided to opt
for more familiar food amongst the many sidewalk cafes (a legacy from the French).
White faces are always a target for the touts. Aged between 8 and 20 touts usually work for a master. (Oliver Twist is a live and well in Asia).
Before dinner - they do not hassle you whilst eating - we were offered, books, paintings, a massage, marijuana, roses, cigarette lighters,
sunglasses, and a shoeshine. They are very skilled sales people.
Yesterday we also visited the famous Rex Hotel and had a beer in the garden bar. Today we explored the Saigon Museum.
Dinner was prawns for $NZ4. Shirley reckons they were the best we've had to date.
Tomorrow morning we head South to the Mekong Delta then off to Cambodia. Mekong trip booked through Sinh Cafe who
organise a 3 day journey, some meals and hotels. Easy way to travel and popular with backpackers.
Only one regret about this visit to Vietnam - didn't travel to the island of Phu Quoc - by most reports I have read it is quite lovely.
Oh well ... I'll just have to go back.
Cambodia
We took 5 days travelling up the Mekong Delta and crossing the border into Cambodia.
The following website publishes excellent travel guides that were so valuable ....Canby Publications Cambodia
After leaving the rush and chaos of Saigon the Delta seemed so tranquil. The delta is a huge area of silted land that gets it's nourishment
from the Mekong River. The people are very poor (as in most of Vietnam) and survive on subsistence farming. The Mekong starts in Tibet,
travels through China, Laos, Cambodia and ends up feeding the rice padies if the Delta.
Our border crossing was at Chau Doc. The Rugby final was on and I quickly rushed off to find a bar with Satellite TV. There was one in
town (and only one). Here I was - a kiwi in Chau Doc Vietnam, watching the world cup of Rugby (England vs Aussie) with an Italian commentary
in a totally empty bar. Wow what a game.
Travelled by boat up to Phnom Penh (the capital of Cambodia). One huge difference we noticed is that the are hardly any people here
compared to Vietnam. The streets aren't busy and it's a lot more laid back. If we thought poverty existed in Vietnam it is poverty plus in Cambodia.
And it is like the wild west. In today's paper the Prime Ministers nephew was arrested yesterday because one month ago he had a car
accident in the centre of town a shot dead four witnesses. There are security guards outside most hotels, bars, and restaurants.
AND it is expensive compared to Vietnam. This is a legacy of the United Nations involvement after the murderous Pol Pot.
The UN staff had lots of money and pushed the prices up for non locals. Every thing is quoted in US dollars.
We travelled from Phnom Penh by bus to Sihanookville and are staying at the Malibu set on a beautiful beach area called Serendipity Beach.
Sihanookville is in the South facing towards Thailand. The port area (which is about 5 kms from our beach) is a well known smugglers haven.
Having 3 swims a day and meeting lots of interesting people. For dinner last night Shirley had fresh fish $US2 and I had a serving of
17 giant prawns $US3.
Most days we keep an eye out for crazy cowboys and isolated mines (the USA dropped millions of them and people are still dying daily).
We spent the morning today chatting with a US woman incvolved in setting up a self help organisation for the abandoned children.
She was inspiring, interesting, and compassionate. Her work is revered in Cambodia. Check out www.starfishcambodia.org
In 3 days we travel back to Phnom Penh then by boat to Sien Reip and Angkor Wat.
Paradise (Saturday)
We have found paradise. Soft white sand on a stunning beach - Cassarena and Coconut trees. 30 degrees water so crystal clear you can
see your shadow when you are swimming. Beautiful rich blue colours. Sokha Beach on the southern coast of Cambodia.
We are staying right on the water's edge at Serendipity Beach and Sokha Beach is a 10 minute walk around the coast. The beach is
about 5km long and nearly deserted. The Cambodian princess has a house at the beach and there is a hotel being built but at the moment
the beach is empty. It is like no one knows that it is there.
For the last few days we have swum, sunbathed, and enjoyed the total silence in this slice of heaven on earth.
Sticks (Monday)
I, Paul, have found many uses for my hiking stick but most importantly I have discovered it's a great deterrent for snakes.
As we pounded through the brush a few days ago my stick scared off a 6-7 foot beast.
I was quite excited to spot the snake because I can now add it to my list - crocodiles in the Mekong, an elephant in the streets of
Phnom Penh, and now a snake!
Shirley thinks it a good idea that I continue to lead the way through any bush or scrub.
Seim Reap (Wednesday).
Today we enjoyed a wonderful 5 hour cruise up the Tonle Sap River and Lake arriving at Seim Reap. We were greeted at the wharf by
extreme poverty. People living in thatched huts no bigger than 6ft x 6ft. No electricity, no room, no privacy, and right on the roadway.
The depression left our hearts feeling heavy. During the rainy season their homes flood.
Seim Reap is the opposite. The city has trendy cafes, craft shops, and professional beggars (who know every trick in the book).
The town is buzzy with lots of good people. We have hired a guide and over the next 3 days we will explore one of the world's most
magnificent man made sites - Angkor Wat.
We stayed at the Mandalay Inn and it was great $US15 (rated 7/10) but since then two friends have booked in on separate
occasions only to be told "no room left" when they arrived. Better to have something more reliable. The following
website has lots of options ...Angkor Hotels.Not listed but getting good reviews is the Red Piano Guesthouse
TIP: The town is spread out and all the action is around the old market so it's wise to get a hotel within easy walking distance.
Angkor Wat (the holy city)
A bit of history
From 802AD until 1432 Angkor was the capital of the Khmer (Cambodian) empire. The capital housed over 1 million people
(when at the time London England had a population of 50,000).
The warrior prince Jayavarman returned to Cambodia from his conquering and travels around 790 AD. He unified Cambodia and
proclaimed Hindu as the kingdom’s religion.
In 1181 the king, Jayavarman V1, broke with tradition and declared Buddhism the religion of the Khmers. He began a prolific building
programme constructing huge and beautiful temples and monuments to celebrate the Hindu deities and Buddha. The city and kingdom
prospered.
Unfortunately for the Khmers the Thai kingdom became a growing threat to Angkor. The King on advice from his sages and generals
shifted the capital south east to Phnom Penh in 1432.
Angkor Wat was and is a collection of Khmer castles with moats, bridges, towers, libraries, reservoirs, temples, and the most fabulous
carvings, and story walls. It is one of the top man made wonders of the world (alongside the Pyramids and the Taj Mahal).
There are tens of thousands of carvings depicting stories of village life, spiritual belief, great battles, and mythological scenes.
Well there’s the basic history. What was once Hindu became Buddhism. What was
once the kingdom’s capital became deserted and overgrown until “rediscovered” by a French archeologist in the 1860s.
Today many countries are contributing to the restoration of the city thus meaning many of the statues and buildings are enjoying their
former glory.
The restoration is no small task. The entire city was buried in jungle for hundreds of years. It has survived natural deterioration, invading armies,
looting, and pillaging. The inhuman army of Pol Pot was defeated in 1997. We could still see the bullet holes in the southern wall of
Angkor Wat where aggressive fighting took place. For the Cambodian people to recover so resourcefully in less than 7 years reflects on
their resilience as a people.
The well trodden pathways and steps of the city, smoothed by feet one thousand years ago tell stories of monks walking in their orange robes,
sculptors and architects planning and designing, slaves moving mountains of stone, traders, cooks, and soldiers - all in total service to their king.
It is the sculpture and statues of Angkor Wat that captured our pleasure and awe.
One temple - Bayon - has 37 large towers most with 4 huge smiling faces of Buddha. That’s about 148 faces. Even more interesting are the
extensive carvings of unique and revealing scenes of everyday life including the marketplace, cock fighting, chess games, and child birth.
The temple called Ta Prohm, was recently made more famous in the Tomb Raider movies, and is known for its massive trees growing
majestically from the towers and corridors. Just stunning to see.
We hired a guide and driver to explore the temples of the city. It was worth getting the in depth commentary. The down side of Angkor Wat
is the massive effect tourism is having on the people of nearby Seim Reap. In 5 years I reckon it could easily become Angkor Disney World.
For now Angkor beats the Pyramids hands down. Our advise is to hurry and visit this amazing place while you can still enjoy the natural state
without the super hype and sponsorship deals.
Laos
After 4 days we were templed out and decided to travel north to Laos. We are now in Vientiane, the capital. It is quiet and relaxed.
Best of all there are very few Cambodian style touts chasing us for tuk tuks and “buy from my shop”. The gentleness and reverence of the
Lao people is ever so soothing.
Last night we enjoyed a top quality outdoor jazz concert performed by visiting French musicians. Such a treat. Tomorrow we travel 450kmn
north to Luang Prubang, which will be our base to explore the hill tribes and minority people of Northern Laos.
We want to return to Luang Prabang.
In the centre of Laos is a utopia nestled into the banks of the magical Mekong River. Over the centuries, Luang Prabang has been created
with one purpose in mind - to sooth the soul of the weary traveller.
Tall coconut palms set against a rich blue sky. The 66 golden roofs of the Buddhist temples glittering in the sun. French provincial architecture
lovingly restored into quality guesthouses, cafes and craft shops.
Strangers greet us with warm hellos, (Saba idée), the young Buddhist monks colour the streets in their orange robes and the aroma of fresh
Lao coffee fills the air. In the evenings the main street becomes the night market where the H'mong, Mien, and Thai tribal people sell their
colourful silk, opium pipes and craft work.
The village, population 20000, has UNESCO world heritage status, which means Luang Prabang is being carefully restored and preserved.
Temperature is between 20 and 30 degrees. The mood is relaxed and peaceful, singing children walk from school holding hands, and adults
tend their riverbank vegetable gardens.
Accommodation is inexpensive, our spotless new guesthouse is only $NZ10 per night. Luxury can be bought for under $100.
Meals average $5-$10 for 2 (including a bottle of the delicious Lao beer).
We hired pushbikes ($2), visited the Kings Palace, travelled by boat up the Mekong, watched local people weave silk, shopped at the markets,
enjoyed a soothing massage ($5), watched the ethnic ballet, and fell in love with Luang Prabang.
Tomorrow we travel toChaing Mai, in
Thailand
Tip: We flew from Luang Prubang to Chang Mai. After talking with
other travellers our journey would have been more exciting if we had flown from
Siem Reap to Chang Mai, headed north by bus to Chiang Khong on the Lao border,
and travelled down the Mekong to Luang Prubang, then to
Vientiane, then across to Nong Khai in Thailand and down through Thailand to Koh
Chang. The river trip would have been exceptional and the
backroads through Thailand would have been educational and interesting. Oh well
maybe next time.
Chang Mai (a
lovely city but far too touristy - everyone wants you to buy buy buy and after
the laid back Laos it felt like an assault on our senses.
Plus it is very civilised here. We don't have to be aware of open drains and dusty streets). Stayed at the Baan Kaew Guest House. Very nice.
We rate it 7/10 and friends that have since stayed here have also found it pleasant. Lonely Planet gave it a bad write up but we found the place
very comfortable and the staff friendly. It is a safe easy walk to the Night Bazaar which has great shopping and good food. Hired push bikes for
the day and enjoyed riding around the old city. Went to the zoo. A bit primitive compared to the Auckland New Zealand Zoo and the Singapore Zoo.
Tossed up between going into the highlands and bush or heading south to the beach. Sand, surf and sun won and we jumped onto the morning
train heading south.
Phitsanulok - a small town in the middle of nowhere on route to Bangkok. We stopped here to rest between the 12 hour train trip.
The day train was excellent with lots of wonderful scenery. The town was full of military sorts and lots of police. Found a shop where we could
buy any police goods from uniforms to handcuffs. Otherwise we reckon this town is the rear end of Thailand. There is so little to see or do and
after 12 hours we were so bored that we jumped on the midnight train to Bangkok. At least the train station had some activity.
TIP: Don't bother going to Phitsanulok.
Bangkok - a fleeting visit on the way to Ko Chang which is an island on the border of Cambodia. Great bus trip through lots of little towns.
Ko Chang Island - more paradise. 30 degrees, hot sun, sandy beaches, elephants. We have a room right on the water's edge surrounded
by palm trees and the most amazing sunsets This is a stunning marine park.
Meet some really nice Norwegian people (we hear tell that HRH Helen Clark is visiting Norway at present).
Our beachfront accommodation is $US30 per night. Price includes breakfast, amazing views, air conditioning, and very friendly staff.
...............Ahh but we are in a bit of a rut!
For the past 12 days it's been the same old thing. We wake at 7 to the sight of the warm lush waters of the Gulf of Thailand.
There's something quite magical hearing the sound of waves splashing.
Breakfast, (you can't imagine the trouble we have had trying to get the waitress to ensure our eggs are properly boiled), Bangkok Post,
maybe emails, maybe not, then off to the beach to read, swim and read and swim. Lunch is always fresh fruit (pineapple, papaya, watermelon).
Sometimes to break the monotony we will sit our deckchairs in the ocean and sit and read as the water laps around us.
It's unbearable. The temperature gets ups to 32 degrees. We have to swim 5-6 times a day.
Back to our room by 5, and with a Singha Beer we watch stunning sunsets from our deck, night after night.
After dinner, huge BBQ snapper ($6), we return to our room, read and sleep. Day after day.
We decided today we need to get out of this rut so on Jan 1st we are travelling to Ko Mak Island an hour south of here
Koh Mak Island is everything a small (16 sq. km) should be. Palm trees, beautiful white sand, warm crystal clear water, amazing sunsets,
easy snorkeling around the reef to see Nimo and other colourful fish, and friendly people. Prices for accomodatin is cheaper here.
Our beachfront bure with fan, mosquito net, and amazing views, is only $NZ30 per night. Hired a motorbike that took one hour to circle the island.
Not a lot to see.
There is only so much relaxation we can cope with so we travelled by tractor to the wharf, by ferry to the mainland (a 3 hour ride),
by taxi to the bus station, then by bus to Bangkok.
One of the first tasks we needed to complete was to get Shirley's glasses repaired. New frames for $60 with free lens install (in NZ $300).
Bangkok. 16 million people shuffling, tasting, smelling, and living. Bangkok is modern, efficient, noisy, and vibrant.
Read in the Bangkok Post that the Prime Minister announced that any government or council employee found travelling to Cambodia to gamble
at the Casinos during the January holiday period will loose their jobs.
(I, Paul discovered computer heaven - 6 floors, over 700 shops selling everything to do with computers). Accommodation only $NZ24 and
close to the markets, rapid rail, and food stalls. We buy fresh pineapple and watermelon on the street for $1 - yummy!!
After weeks of the quiet times of island life the busy bustling boisterousness of Bangkok proved too much.
Plus Shirley and I are missing all our family and friends. We phoned Singapore Air and they can get us on the plane tomorrow.
As you read this we are on our way back to sunny New Zealand.
Heard tell there's a heat wave happening.
Over the last 12 weeks we have slept in 34 different places, enjoyed a vast array of cultures and food, meet some great people,
and had a wonderful time. Thanks for taking the time to read our postcards.
Highlights have been - Halong Bay and Sapa in Vietnam. Sihinookville and Ankgor Wat in Cambodia, Luang Prabang in Laos, and Koh Chang
and Koh Mak in Thailand.
Lowlights have been tummy trouble twice (we call them chili moments), the hassle of touts in Hanoi, and aggressive fellow tourists.
Travels 2000: Greece, Turkey, Syria, Egypt, Tanzania, Malaysia, ... [ more ]
2004 Bali. 2005 Australia. 2006 Bali and Lombok
Now we are planning our next holiday … maybe the beaches of
Central America, maybe Myanmar, maybe 6 months in Spain.
